A pocket square can really elevate your outfit, whether you’re going to a wedding, the races or any formal event. Typically, pocket squares range from 10 to 17 inches, and opting for a larger size gives you more fabric to create fuller, more intricate folds.
There are various ways to fold a pocket square, and the style you choose often depends on the occasion or the look you want to achieve. Once you familiarise yourself with how to fold a pocket square and the different folding techniques, you’ll be able to enhance everything from a wedding suit to a casual work outfit.
Choosing Your Pocket Square
Silk pocket squares are great for achieving puffed and rounded shapes, but they can struggle with maintaining the crisp, straight edges needed for a flat fold.
On the other hand, cotton and linen are much better at holding sharp edges and staying in place, making them ideal for structured, geometric folds. Linen, in particular, is a reliable choice for pocket squares because it presses well and maintains a sharp point.
It’s important to note that your pocket square doesn’t have to match your tie in colour, pattern, or style. The aim is for each element to complement each other, so pick out a secondary colour from your tie or shirt instead.
The Presidential Fold Pocket Square
The presidential fold is the most versatile fold there is, and the one that most people learn first. It shows a clean horizontal line of fabric across the top of the pocket and it suits pretty much all suits.
To start, lay the handkerchief flat in a diamond, then fold it in half into a rectangle. Fold the right third over to the left, then the left third back over the top, leaving a narrow vertical strip roughly the width of your pocket. Next, fold the bottom up until the strip sits at about the right height. Slide it in with the clean folded edge showing a quarter to half an inch above the pocket.
This pocket square fold is a popular choice for formal events, job interviews, funerals, and any occasion where you want to look smart but not overdressed.
The One Point Fold Pocket Square
With the one point fold, instead of a flat line, you get a single triangular point rising out of the pocket. This fold still looks neat and is appropriate for business, but it adds a little more visual interest.
First you need to start with the handkerchief flat in a diamond, with one corner pointing up. Then fold the bottom corner up to meet the top, forming a triangle. Fold the left corner in toward the centre, then bring the right corner over to overlap it. You should now have a vertical shape with a single point at the top. Slide it into the pocket so just the point peeks out.
The one point fold is ideal for the office and most daytime settings, this fold looks intentional and tidy without showing off.
The Two Point Fold Pocket Square and Three Point Fold Pocket Square
Both the two point fold and three point fold are variations on the same fold. Rather than a single peak, you stagger two or three points so they fan out slightly, which gives a slightly dressier look.
Begin as you would for the one point fold. Just before the final triangle fold, move the top layer across so the corners sit beside each other rather than stacked, which leaves two or three staggered tips. Slide it in with the points on show.
Both the two point and three point folds suit weddings and evening events that call for something a bit dressier, and linen holds the peaks best.
The Puff Fold Pocket Square
The puff fold is the relaxed option, soft and rounded rather than sharp and structured. Start by laying the handkerchief flat and pinch it in the centre, then lift it straight up so it hangs like a little parachute. Run your free hand down the length to gather the fabric into a loose column. Tuck the bottom corners up under themselves. Set it in the pocket puff-side up and adjust the rounded top until it sits the way you like.
The puff is the easiest fold to live with day to day, and it pairs naturally with softer jackets. Silk shines here, since its sheen catches the light in the folds.
The Winged Puff Fold Pocket Square
The winged puff fold is simply the puff in reverse. Instead of a rounded dome, you let the pointed corners show at the top. Fold it exactly as you would a puff, then invert it so the tips face up. It sits nicely in between and is softer than a pointed fold but more structured than a plain puff.
That makes the winged puff a good middle option when a plain puff feels too casual but a pointed fold feels too formal. This type of fold typically suits dinners, relaxed weddings, and smart evenings out.
Silk is the natural choice for this fold, since its sheen catches the light across both the soft base and the raised tips, though linen will give you sharper points if you prefer them crisp. Just take a moment to adjust how high the tips sit and how far they spread once it’s in the pocket.
How To Choose The Right Fold
At most formal events, such as interviews, black tie and funerals, choose the presidential flat fold in white linen. Business and daytime events call for the one point fold or the two point fold.
Weddings and evening events suit a multi-point fold or a puff in coloured silk, whereas casual blazers and relaxed settings are best paired with a puff fold or a winged puff fold. As a general rule, the more formal the occasion, the flatter and more structured the fold of your pocket square, and the more relaxed the setting, the softer and rounder you can go.
It’s worth a thought for the jacket as well, since structured folds sit best in crisp tailoring while softer puffs suit textured fabrics like tweed and unstructured blazers. When you’re learning how to fold a pocket square, the presidential and the one point fold are the two to learn first, since they’ll carry you through almost any occasion.
Key Takeaways
A pocket square is one of the smallest details in an outfit, yet it does a lot of the work in pulling a look together. Pick a fold, try it in the mirror a few times, and within a week it will take you seconds without a second thought.
Start with the presidential and the one point fold, keep a plain white linen square to hand for anything formal, and add the puff and multi-point folds as you grow more confident. If you need help with picking a suit, book an appointment and our team will be on hand to help you find the perfect suit and give advice on how to style it.
