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Black Tie or Smart Casual? Decoding Dress Codes

Dress codes set the tone for an event, making sure everyone looks the part and the atmosphere stays cohesive. From black tie to smart casual, these guidelines help avoid fashion mishaps and give you confidence in your outfit choices. 

But what happens if you don’t know what they mean?

Getting a sense of the setting and expected level of formality is key, as ignoring a dress code can make you stand out for the wrong reasons. Knowing what is expected, meanwhile, helps you keep comfortable, confident, and appropriately dressed, so you can focus on enjoying the event rather than worrying about your outfit.

So what are the main dress codes you’ll encounter?

Black Tie: Classic and Timeless

Black tie is the height of formal evening wear, usually reserved for occasions that demand a polished and sophisticated look. Think gala dinners, award ceremonies, and high-end weddings – the kind of events you may want to hire a suit for over buying one outright. This dress code is strict, leaving little room for personal interpretation, but it guarantees an effortlessly stylish result when done right.

The foundation of black tie is a well-fitted dinner suit, also known as a tuxedo. A black jacket with satin lapels, paired with matching trousers, is the go-to choice. A crisp white dress shirt and a black bow tie complete the look, giving you that classic, polished finish. Accessories should be elegant but understated, keeping the overall appearance sleek and refined.

Key Tips For Black Tie:

  • Stick to a classic dinner suit or tuxedo with a white dress shirt
  • Wear a black bow tie and polished leather dress shoes
  • Keep accessories minimal but stylish—think cufflinks and a pocket square
  • A waistcoat or cummerbund is optional but adds extra polish
  • Make sure your jacket fits properly for a clean, tailored look

Black tie dressing is all about getting the details right. Good tailoring, quality fabrics, and well-chosen accessories will ensure you look sharp without trying too hard.

Formal Attire: Smart and Refined

Formal attire is a step below black tie but still requires a polished and structured look. You will often see this dress code at evening weddings, corporate functions, and theatre openings. While a tuxedo is not necessary, the focus remains on looking sharp and well put together, which is why many men choose to get a bespoke suit made for these occasions.

A dark suit is the safest bet, with navy, charcoal, or black being solid choices. Pairing it with a crisp dress shirt and a blazer keeps the outfit sleek, while a tie is usually expected, especially for more traditional events. Polished leather shoes, such as oxfords or brogues, tie everything together, ensuring you maintain an elegant appearance.

Key Tips for Formal Attire:

  • Choose a well-fitted dark suit with a smart blazer
  • A dress shirt should be plain or have a subtle pattern
  • A tie is typically expected but can be skipped for slightly more relaxed settings
  • Stick to polished dress shoes like oxfords or brogues
  • Avoid casual fabrics or loud colours

Cocktail Attire: Polished but Relaxed

Cocktail attire sits between formal and casual, striking a balance between smart dressing and self-expression. It is a go-to for parties, weddings, and semi-formal gatherings, allowing for a bit more personality in your outfit. The key is to look stylish without being too stiff or overdone.

A tailored suit in a dark or neutral shade is a good starting point. Unlike strict formal dress codes, you have more freedom with your shirt choice, playing with textures and subtle patterns to show off your personality. A tie is optional, though it can add polish, especially for evening events. Footwear should still be sleek, with loafers or dress shoes being the best options.

Key Tips for Cocktail Attire:

  • Choose a tailored suit in a dark or neutral colour
  • A dress shirt is essential, but subtle patterns or textures add personality
  • A tie is optional but adds a refined touch
  • Loafers or polished dress shoes keep the look sharp
  • Use accessories like a pocket square to inject some individuality

Smart Casual: Effortlessly Put-Together

Smart casual is one of the most adaptable dress codes, mixing polished elements with relaxed pieces. It appears in work environments, social gatherings, and daytime events, so getting it right means balancing structure and comfort. The key is looking neat and intentional, without being overly formal.

Tailored trousers or chinos are a strong foundation, providing a smarter alternative to jeans. A collared shirt, jumper, or blazer adds structure, making sure the outfit feels polished. One easy way to do this is with a plain suit to start with – choose the jacket you like from your wardrobe as a basis. Dark-wash, well-fitted jeans can work in more relaxed settings, provided they are styled appropriately. Shoes should be sharp but comfortable: think loafers, brogues, or minimalist trainers.

three men walking through a hedged road with a gate behind them, dressed in different styles of smart casual wear.

Key Tips for Smart Casual:

  • Go for tailored trousers or chinos for a polished base
  • Pair with a collared shirt, jumper, or blazer for structure
  • Dark-wash, well-fitted jeans can work when styled right
  • Choose loafers, brogues, or smart trainers for footwear
  • Skip overly casual items like graphic T-shirts or distressed denim

Smart casual is all about striking the right balance. Keeping the look polished yet comfortable ensures you are dressed appropriately for a range of occasions.

Business Casual: Professional but Relaxed

Business casual is slightly more polished than smart casual, designed for office settings where a full suit is not necessary but looking professional is. It is a common dress code for workplaces that want to maintain a sharp image while allowing for comfort and personal style.

A pair of well-fitted trousers with a button-down shirt or smart knitwear is a great base. A blazer can add extra structure, though it is not always needed, and some prefer to go for an open look with a single breasted suit. Shoes should still look professional – leather or suede options work best, while trainers are usually too casual. Keeping accessories simple and understated ensures a clean, refined look.

Key Tips for Business Casual:

  • Wear well-fitted trousers with a button-down shirt or smart knitwear
  • A blazer adds polish but is not always required
  • Stick to leather or suede shoes – trainers are too casual
  • Keep accessories simple and professional
  • Avoid overly bright colours or relaxed fabrics

Business casual allows for a professional but laid-back approach. Making sure your outfit is neat and well-coordinated will help you strike the right balance between style and workplace expectations.

Navigating dress codes does not have to be complicated. Once you understand the basics, dressing appropriately for any occasion becomes second nature. If you are unsure, it is always better to lean slightly more formal than too casual. You can always tune an outfit down quite easily compared to making something casual look smarter, after all.

Picture of Hugo Duckworth
Hugo Duckworth
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